If your mower is slipping on hills or simply won't move when you engage the drive, you're likely staring down a simplicity broadmoor drive belt replacement. It's one of those maintenance tasks that every Broadmoor owner eventually faces. These tractors are built like tanks and can last decades, but rubber is rubber, and eventually, the heat and tension take their toll.
Getting under the machine might seem a bit intimidating if you haven't done it before. You look at that mess of pulleys and wonder how a single belt is supposed to weave through all that without getting tangled. Don't worry, though; once you understand the logic behind how Simplicity designed the drivetrain, it becomes a lot less of a headache. It's mostly about patience and having a few basic tools handy.
Why Your Belt Gave Up the Ghost
Before you tear into the tractor, it's worth thinking about why the belt failed. If it's just old and cracked, that's normal wear and tear. But if you just replaced it last season and it's already shredded, you might have a seized idler pulley or a stick wedged somewhere it shouldn't be.
Usually, the first sign of trouble is a loss of power when you're heading up an incline. You'll hear the engine revving just fine, but the wheels aren't getting the memo. Sometimes you'll even smell burning rubber. If you experience that, stop the mower immediately. Running a slipping belt for too long can generate enough heat to damage the plastic cooling fan on top of the transaxle, and that's a much more annoying part to replace than just the belt.
Getting Ready for the Job
First things first, you need to clear some space. Doing a simplicity broadmoor drive belt replacement on a patch of grass is a recipe for losing bolts and getting covered in damp clippings. If you have a flat concrete floor in a garage or driveway, use it.
You're going to want to gather a few things: * A basic socket set (mostly 1/2" and 9/16") * A pair of needle-nose pliers * A long screwdriver or a small pry bar * A camera (your phone) to take pictures of the routing * A pair of sturdy work gloves
Safety is a big deal here, too. I know it sounds like a chore, but disconnect the spark plug wire. You'll be reaching around the engine pulley, and the last thing you want is an accidental kick-start. Also, make sure the parking brake is off once you've got the wheels chocked, as you'll need the tensioner pulley to move freely while you work.
Removing the Mower Deck
Technically, some people claim they can swap the drive belt with the deck still attached, but honestly? It's not worth the frustration. Removing the deck gives you the visibility you need to see the routing and saves your knuckles from getting shredded.
Drop the deck to its lowest position, pull the pins, and slide it out from under the tractor. This is also a great time to scrape out the dried grass from under the deck and check your blades, but let's stay focused on the drive belt for now. Once the deck is out of the way, you'll have a clear view of the "tunnel" where the drive belt lives.
Tackling the Belt Removal
The drive belt on a Broadmoor runs from the engine pulley (above the PTO clutch) all the way back to the transaxle pulley at the rear. It's a long path.
Dealing with the PTO Clutch
The biggest hurdle is often the electric PTO clutch. The drive belt sits above it. You'll usually find a "belt stopper" or a metal rod near the engine pulley designed to keep the belt from jumping off. You'll need to loosen or remove this. Sometimes you have to drop the clutch itself down an inch or two on the crankshaft to get enough clearance to slip the old belt out and the new one in. Don't worry, you don't usually have to take the whole clutch off—just loosen the central bolt enough to create a gap.
The Idler Pulleys
In the middle of the chassis, you'll find the idler arm and its pulleys. This is what maintains tension on the belt. Take a picture of how the belt weaves through these. It's very easy to accidentally route the belt on the wrong side of a pulley stay. Use your screwdriver to lever the idler arm away, which should give the belt enough slack to be pulled off. If the old belt is already snapped, well, that part of the job is already done for you!
Choosing the Right Replacement Belt
I can't stress this enough: get the OEM belt. I know the generic belts at the big-box hardware stores are half the price, but Simplicity belts have a specific cross-section and "clutching" cover that generics usually don't match. A generic belt might be the right length, but it'll often squeal, vibrate, or wear out in a single weekend. Save yourself the double labor and buy the actual Simplicity part. Your wallet might sting for a second, but your mower will thank you.
Routing the New Belt
This is the part where people usually start questioning their life choices. Installing the new belt is a bit like solving a puzzle. Start from the back and work your way forward.
- The Transaxle Pulley: Loop the belt over the fan and onto the pulley at the very back of the tractor. Make sure it's seated properly in the groove.
- The Center Idlers: This is the "V" or "S" curve. Follow your photo or the diagram (usually found on a sticker under the footrest or in the manual). Ensure the flat side of the belt is hitting the flat pulleys and the V-side is tucked into the V-pulleys.
- The Engine Pulley: Finally, wrap it around the pulley at the front. You'll likely need to use that pry bar again to pull the idler arm and get enough slack to jump the belt over the lip of the engine pulley.
Once it's on, give it a manual "tug test." Rotate the engine pulley by hand (with the spark plug still disconnected!) and watch the belt. It should move smoothly without rubbing against any metal brackets or guards. If it looks like it's rubbing, you probably have it on the wrong side of a belt guide.
Putting it All Back Together
After the belt is seated, go back and tighten that PTO clutch bolt if you loosened it. Re-attach any belt guards or stoppers you removed. Before you put the deck back on, I highly recommend a quick "dry run."
Reconnect the spark plug, sit in the seat, and start the engine. Release the parking brake and gently move the drive lever forward and backward just a few inches. If the tractor moves and there's no horrifying screeching sound, you've nailed the simplicity broadmoor drive belt replacement.
Now you can slide the mower deck back under, hook up the hangers, and get back to work. It's a satisfying feeling when you're done, knowing you just saved yourself a hundred bucks in shop labor and the hassle of hauling the tractor to a dealer.
Final Maintenance Thoughts
Since you've just gone through the trouble of replacing the belt, take a second to grease the fittings on the idler arm. A little shot of grease ensures that the arm moves freely, which helps the belt stay at the proper tension.
Also, keep an eye on your grass height. One of the quickest ways to cook a drive belt is by trying to mow thick, wet grass at high speeds. It puts immense strain on the entire system. If you take it a bit slower and keep the underside of the tractor clean, your new belt should last you for many seasons to come.
It's not exactly a "fun" Saturday afternoon project, but keeping your Broadmoor in top shape is worth the effort. These machines are legendary for their cut quality, and with a fresh drive belt, yours will be back to making the neighbors jealous in no time.